CANYON ENCOUNTERS

Canyon view

 

 

 

 

 

 

My wife and I just returned from a delightful trip to Grand Canyon, together with my niece, Marjorie. The weather was perfect. I got to take photographs at two sunsets and two sunrises – and many times in between, a total of about 300 pictures.
On my Sunset walk on the second night I met a couple looking down to the trees in Indian Gardens thousands of feet below us. I asked him if he had ever been there. Oh yes he had, but that was many years ago. So began a delightful conversation as we walked together back to the Village. I found that their names were Michael and Natalie, that they lived in Ohio and Florida, and that Natalie was a painter, going by the painting name of Vera. I love these chance encounters with such wonderful people.
We had a very different encounter the next morning as we drove eastward along the rim toward Desert View. As soon as we parked the car at Grandview Point my niece spotted a young man picking up a small child probably less than a year old, with an older child near by. She said something to the effect that he must have found the child in the woods, and if so he found a good one. The boy in question, now in his father’s arms, smiled broadly and waved a friendly greeting. The older boy, not wanting to be upstaged by his younger brother, looked down at the Colorado river, 4000 feet below us. He then remembered his super powers, looked up at us and announced, “I just jumped up from there.” We were all dutifully impressed and congratulated him on his prodigious feat.
Marjorie and friend

 

FALL SYCAMORE

We don’t get many fall colors in the Catalina mountains, but you can find them along stream beds, especially high inn the mountains where the Big tooth Maple provides the best examples. This painting shows a riparian area with a huge Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii), among other trees.

 

fall sycamore

LEARNING THE GRASSES

Since I decided to photograph grasses I have made several trips up the mountains. Most of the species have finished blooming for the year and are loaded with seeds. I love seeing the many forms that these grasses take. I can see it is going to be quite a challenge getting to know them all.

In my growing collection of plant books, there were none for the grasses, so I bought three to start to learn them. One was first published in 1899, another in 1935 and the third in 1979, so there may be some problems in name changes. All three have line drawings which are quite beautiful, but are not able to show the colors of the flowers, and the fine details of their fruits.

I realized that a better way of learning grasses is to see the plants themselves. It dawned on me that there is a huge collection of grasses, mounted and labeled at the University of Arizona Herbarium. So I took my camera and set off for the Campus. In the building that houses the herbarium I met many of my botanical friends and they helped me find the grasses I was looking for. In about four hours I photographed over 100 of them. A few days later I went to the collection put together by Joan Tedford at the Palisades ranger station in the Catalina Mountains, and photographed that collection (over 70 species). I am beginning to have a way of identifying the grasses I have been seeing and photographing. By the time Spring comes around I will be better equipped to name the different species as they come into bloom.

In my hikes I have found a few species in flower. It turns out that the showiest ones happen to be problem grasses that are crowding out the native species in certain areas. On one trip I found two of them side by side, both of which are a real problem in this part of the world. It turns out that they are related. (Pennisetum ciliare or Bufflegrass, and Pennisetum setaceum or Fountain Grass). You can see their similarities in these pictures. I found another non-native grass in beautiful bloom. It is not as much of a problem, and is an important food crop, Sorghum halpense or Johnsongrass.

BufflegrassPennisetum setaceum3Johnson grass

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bufflegrass and Fountain grass

 

Johnsongrass flowers

I THINK I AM IN LOVE

I think I’m falling in love. No, not with Louise – well, yes, I did that in 1954. I mean I have a new love. I think I am in love with grasses.

For some reason I have been ignoring grasses these last 14 years. In that time I have learned to identify about 500 different wildflower species, and every tree species in these southern Arizona mountains, but grasses were a great, deep mystery. It seemed impossible for anyone to learn them. Because I hadn’t really looked at them, they looked all the same to me. And then my friend Jim suggested that I start photographing grasses. He would help with identification. Immediately I knew that this was going to be my next project.

I learned that there are fewer than 200 grass species in the Catalina mountains. (In one list I have there are fewer than 100). Surely I could get to know the grasses. I found one hiking with Ed in Turkey Run last week, and then went to Molino Basin a few days ago and found lots more. At this point I am not able to put names to any of them.

Last evening my wife and I decided to abandon the idiot box and go for a stroll in Molino Basin.
We left our house at 5pm.  We arrived at the parking lot at about 5:20. This was a half hour before sunset, but the sun was already obscured by the hill to the west, so we could walk without hats or sun screen. It was a beautiful evening, clear, light breeze, perfect temperature. We walked up the paved camp road – less than a mile. The roadside was lush with grasses. When we turned around I decided to see how many distinct grass forms I could see on the way back to the car. I was struck by the great variety and stunning beauty of the fruiting heads of these grasses. I was also struck by how easy they were to tell apart. I realize that this will not always be the case, but in the space of less than a half an hour I figured I had seen over thirty different species.

At one point Louise stopped me to point out a line of ants scurrying across the road carrying white bundles of some sort. . With my binoculars I could see that many of them were carrying grass seeds, like the beautiful one in this photograph. grassb8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here is one of the grasses we found yesterday. The first picture shows a branch. The second moves in closer, and the third closer still.

 

AJ5AJ6AJ9

ANOTHER ADVENTURE WITH ED

There was heavy wind in the forecast today in southern Arizona so Ed encouraged me to bring a jacket. How right he was. We walked up Turkey Run, having rejected the idea of Oracle Ridge where the wind would have blown us off the mountain. Even in the deep woods it was very windy and there was a fall chill in the air. We did not see many wildflowers, about half as many as last week (14 compared to 37). We did see this beautiful Richardson’s geranium with two blooms on a single plant one white and the other deep pink. In this species the color can be blue, white or pink.

Geraniums
It turned out that the big attraction on this walk was not to be wildflowers but fall colors and clouds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We arrived at our snack point. I sat on a log. Ed moved up the slope to look at a stand of trees including some Big Tooth Maple in full color. He stood there for the longest time, mesmerized by the view.

Frank on log

Eventually I joined him and saw what had held him spellbound. We stood there, looking up the hill with a stand of trees, many in their fall colors. Above the trees wonderful formations of clouds were moving swiftly up and over our heads. It felt as if the clouds were holding still and the world had suddenly accelerated its rotation.

 

 

 

 

 

This picture gives you some idea of the view of the trees and one of the many cloud forms racing above them.
Fall scene

BUCKWHEATS

Many times I find nature overwhelming in its complexity and beauty. It is impossible to know everything about everything. Over time I have learned that it is enough to get to know some things about a few things in a fairly limited area. Which brings me to buckwheat. I first got interested in buckwheat when I did illustrations for the first edition of Charlie Kane’s “Herbal Medicine of the American Southwest”, including paintings of flat-top buckwheat (p. 98-100). Now, eight years later, I decided to take a closer look at the buckwheat flowers.

With my new camera and lens I can zoom in and see flowers at a much closer range than before, and discover things I have not yet noticed.

The buckwheat family is called Polygonaceae, from the Greek word polygon = knee, referring to the fact that many in this genus have thickened joints on their stems.

The genus is eriogonum, from two Greek words: erion=hairy or woolly, and gonu=joint, since some species in this genus have hairy joints.

How many Eriogonum species are there?
240 – in the world (Wikipedia)
200 – in the United States ( Kane)
100 – in Southern California, Arizona and New Mexico (Ricketts)
50 – in Arizona (Epple)
5 – in the Santa Catalina mountains above 4000′ (Verrier and Tedford)

Of these five, let me show you two, one visible and the other “invisible”.

The visible one is Flat-topped buckwheat or eriogonum fasciculatum. The botanical name refers to the fact that the leaves are in fascicles, or bundles where they attach to the stem.

Here we see a road cut in the Catalina Mountains with eriogonum fasciculatum in fairly large clumps all along the slope.  Eriogonum fasciculatum1pass
Eriogonum fasciculatum1
These large masses look almost black in the late fall and winter. Then, in the early spring, they turn a beautiful green and soon are topped with a bouquet of pale pink flowers.  After a while, as the flowers fade, the top turns a pleasant rust color.

 

 

Here we see a group of plants, with just a few flowers left.

 

 

Eriogonum fasciculatum3

 

Here is a single plant showing some fresh flowers, and some that have turned brown.

Eriogonum fasciculatum3b

Here is a plant with mostly new flowers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eriogonum fasciculatum5

 

A single branch with a cluster on the top consisting of many flowers packed tightly together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eriogonum fasciculatum6

 

 

Here is the cluster close up. Note that some of the flowers have aged and turned reddish brown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eriogonum fasciculatum7

 

This is a single flat-topped buckwheat flower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The second species is one of the “invisible” buckwheats,  – Sorrel eriogonum,  eriogonum polycladon (meaning having many branches).

Eriogonum polycladon3

The plants are about two feet tall. You can see the way they branch. The pinkish-white parts at the end of the stems are the flowers. There are fields full of these plants between 4000′ and 5000′. Often I have walked by them and wondered if they were in bloom or not, since the flowers are so small. The stems are grey. The flower buds are partly red and the flowers mostly white. From a distance these plants give a beautiful pink glow to the landscape.

 

 

 

 

Eriogonum polycladon7

 

Eriogonum polycladon7blackThis is a close-up of a group of buds, part of a flower and some fading flowers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a single flower, very small, nearly invisible yet quite beautiful.

 

THE CORAL BEAN

When I was first learning the flowers of the Catalina Mountains, I took a particular interest in the coral bean (Erythrina flabelliformis), with its beautiful red tubular flowers. I knew it grew in Molino Basin, about 4500 feet in elevation, and that the flowers usually came out before the leaves. This made the flowers easier for the pollinators to spot, but somehow I found it difficult to find them. That first year of looking, by the time I found the plants they had pretty well finished blooming, and I determined to learn where they were so that I could find them more quickly the following year. Erythrina flabelliformis1hillErythrina flabelliformis3Erythrina flabellisformis3

That fall I drove up into Molino Basin and dotted all over the hillsides were the bright yellow leaves of the coral bean. They were very easy to spot, as you can see in this photograph. I made a mental note of a number of them, and when I returned the following June found them easily.

Erythrina flabelliformis2

 

 

 

 

Here is a close up of one, with a desert spoon shrub the other side of the rock.

 

 

 

 

 

This picture shows the plant with flowers as well as leaves. This is unusual, since the flowers usually come before the first leaf.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I learned that this plant is not really a shrub. South of us, in Mexico, it grows into a substantial tree. But here the winters are too cold, so they never grow much above 6 feet in height. One day while exploring the stream bed in Molino Basin, I came across this coral bean plant with the roots exposed by erosion. The roots were as thick as my arm. Clearly this root system could support a fairly large tree.

In 2006 my wife and I spent three months living in Australia, mostly suburban Sydney, and one day walking in the neighborhood I came across a thirty-foot erythrina tree in full and glorious bloom. It is the same genus but not the same species as the one in Arizona.

In addition to the gorgeous red flowers, the plant produces beautifully colored seeds, varying from brown to deep red, and separated by little white cusErythrina flabellisformis6Erythrina flabellisformis8hions, as you can see in the final photograph..

ANOTHER BLISSFUL MOUNTAIN WALK

Ed and I were on the return leg of our hike in Marshall Gulch in the Catalina Mountains today. We came across some flowers we had not seen on the outward journey, especially the beautiful blue Mountain Lobelia. Lobelia

I said: “Will wonders never cease?” and Ed replied: “That exact phrase has been running through my head for the last ten minutes.” I suggested that he might have planted it in my mind by some mental transference. At least it showed how much we were sharing a sense of happiness and wonder.

When we set out on the hike we expected that now, early in October, we might see some of the fall colors for which this part of the mountain is famous. We did not expect to see many flowers, not at 8000 feet. It proved to be the reverse. The fall colors were just barely starting. See this spray of big-tooth maple leaves.

maple

And there were lots of flowers. We counted 25 on the outward journey and 12 more on the return. (See the list below)

 

 

 

 

At our turn-around point Ed noticed a plant across the stream bed. We paused, took out our binoculars, and realized that it was a collection of Spikenard plants (Aralia bicrenata). This is a plant that we have seen in only a few places on the mountain. And there, in their fall colors, was a family of at least a half a dozen plants. This photograph shows one of them.
Aralia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were surprised to see many Canadian violets. We noted one that had a lot of pink (they are usually pure white.) I also caught this picture of a seed pod that had recently burst open to fling out the seeds for the coming season.
Violet fruit Violet
Plants found flowering in Marshall Gulch, Oct 2, 2013
Ageratina  herbacea            Fragrant Snakeroot
Aquilegia chrysantha           Golden Columbine
Arenaria lanuginosa subsp. saxosa       Sandwort
Artemisia ludoviciana           Wormwood
Brickellia grandiflora            Brickellia
Brickellia rusbyi                   Brickellia
Castilleja austromontana     Mountain Paintbrush
Cirsium wheeleri                  Wheeler Thistle
Commelina dianthifolia         Dayflower
Conyza canadensis             Horseweed
Desmodium arizonicum        Arizona Tick Clover
Draba helleriana                  Heller’s Draba
Erigeron arizonicus              Arizona Fleabane
Erigeron  neomexicanum     New Mexico Fleabane
Galium mexicanum               Mexican Bedstraw
Geranium caespitosum        Wild Geranium
Geranium richardsonii          Richardson’s Geranium
Hedeoma hyssopifolia          Mock Pennyroyal
Hieracium crepidispermum (lemmoni)  Lemmon Hawkweed
Laennecia schiedeana         Laennecia
Lathyrus graminifolius          Peavine
Lobelia anatina                    Mountain Lobelia
Lupinus palmeri                   Palmer Lupine
Mimulus guttatus                 Yellow Monkeyflower
Mirabilis albida                    White Four O’clock
Penstemon barbatus           Red Penstemon
Pseudocymopterus montanus   Mountain Parsley
Pseudognaphalium macounii     Cudweed
Rumex obtusifolius              Bitter Dock
Satureja vulgaris  (Clinopodium)  Wild Basil
Senecio bigelovii                Nodding Groundsel
Silene scouleri                   Scouler’s Catchfly
Solidago velutina  subsp.sparsiflora     Sparse-flowered Goldenrod
Stevia plummerae               Plummer’s Stevia
Taraxacum officinale           Common Dandelion
Trifolium pinetorum             Pine Clover
Viola canadensis                Canada Violet

On the way up the mountain we saw crews working in Bear Canyon, putting up barriers to the washrooms and picnic areas. My first thought was: “The shut down of the government has come to the Catalina Mountains.”  When we started the hike in Marshall Gulch the bathrooms were open, but when we returned it was clear that the crew had made it to the top of the mountain, as you can see from this photograph.

closing

Fortunately all of the trails are still open, but the bathrooms, picnic table and Ranger station are closed until the government is allowed to get back to work.

FALL FLOWERS IN MOLINO BASIN

Some years ago I hiked Molino Basin in the Catalina Mountains once a week so I got to know it very well. The cover of the Mountain Wildflower book shows a picture of the basin seen from a saddle on the east side. Here is a similar view.
Molino basin

There are about 600 flowering species in the Catalina Mountains and over half of them are in this one area. By hiking it on a regular basis for over a year I got to appreciate the great variety of plants that grow here. My particular goal today was to find the rare and beautiful Rivina humilis (rouge plant), which I saw in bud a few weeks ago.

 

Rivina humilisFL copy

Today I did find the plant. As far as I could see it was finished flowering but it was buried so deep in a thicket that I could not really tell. I was not able to get a close up picture, but at least I know it is still there, though not in great numbers. As you can see from the list below there were almost 60 species in bloom on my two-mile walk, so I was well rewarded for my efforts.

 

 

 

 

Right at the parking lot there is a climbing milkweed. The flowers come in bunches and I decided to photograph just one on its own.

 

Funastrum cynanchoides9

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the stream bed I found a number of the Mock Pennyroyal plants. This is similar to a plant of the same name that grows along the mountain trails at the top of the mountain, but has interesting differences.

 

Hedeoma dentata7face
I am sure I passed by many flowers too small to notice. The list includes some guesses. I did not take the time to do a careful inspection to determine the exact species, so there may be some errors in the list. At least it gives an idea of the wide variety of plants still blooming as we approach the fall.

 

 

 

 

PLANTS I SAW IN BLOOM (SOME IN BUD) TODAY
Acacia angustissima          White –Ball Acacia
Amaranthus fimbriatus    Careless weed
Amaranthus palmeri       Careless weed
Amauriopsis (Bahia) dissecta    Ragleaf Bahia
Ambrosia confertiflora     Slimleaf Bursage – lots of it
Anisacanthus thurberi       Desert Honeysuckle – one plant
Artemisia dracunculus       False Tarragon
Artemisia ludoviciana     Wormwood – lots of it
Asclepias linaria         Pine-leaf Milkweed – one plant
Baccharis sarothroides      Desert Broom – in bud
Brickellia californica       California Brickellia
Brickellia rusbyi       Brickellia
Brickellia venosa       Brickellia
Calliandra eriophylla         Fairy Duster – one plant
Carminatia tenuiflora        Plume Weed
Datura wrightii         Sacred Datura
Dieteria asteroides        Narrow-leaf Aster – lots of it
Epilobium canum ssp. latifolium   Hummingbird Trumpet
Erigeron divergens     Spreading Fleabane
Eriogonum polycladon      Sorrel Eriogonum
Eriogonum wrightii           Wright’s Buckwheat
Eriogonum fasciculatum   Flat-topped Buckwheat
Euphorbia pediculifera  Spurge
Funastrum (Sarcostemma) cynanchoides var. hartwegii  Climbing Milkweed (picture above)
Glandularia gooddingii       Goodding Verbena
Gomphrena sonorae         Globe Amaranth – maybe just fruit
Gossypium thurberi         Desert Cotton
Gymnosperma glutinosum       Gumhead – lots of it
Hedeoma dentata      Mock Pennyroyal (picture above)
Heliomeris  longifolia var. annua       Annual Goldeneye
Heterotheca subaxillaris      Camphorweed
Hymenothrix wrightii         Wright Beeflower
Ipomoea costellata         Crest-rib Morning Glory
Ipomoea barbatisepala     Morning Glory (blue)
Ipomoea cristulata (coccinea)       Scarlet Creeper
Ipomoea hederacea       Ivy-leaf  Morning Glory
Mentzelia isolata         Isolated Blazing-Star
Oenothera caespitosa       Tufted Evening- Primrose – one plant
Phaseolus acutifolius var. tenuifolius   Tepary Bean
Porophyllum ruderale var. macrocephalum    Poreleaf
Pseudognaphalium canescens Wright’s cudweed
Rivina humilis       Pigeon Berry, Rouge Plant  – in fruit
Salsola tragus        Russian Thistle
Sanvitalia abertii         Abert’s Dome
Sphaeralcea ambigua var. rosacea     Desert Mallow
Sphaeralcea fendleri var. venusta   Fendler Mallow
Sphaeralcea laxa       Caliche Globe Mallow
Stachys coccinea         Texas Betony – one plant
Stephanomeria pauciflora      Wire Lettuce
Viguiera dentata var. lancifolia     Lance-leaf Goldeneye
Xanthisma gracile      Slender Goldenweed – lots and lots of it